Anyone know the length of the strap. I need to get one for the LB but need dimensions of strap so I know it will fit the battery I have. Thanks

Experience tells me that even if you know...the original spec was for a 6v battery and i posted a VW page on a thread about battery covers with the dims of OG batteries.

I have had Dave make me a cover for a 110Ah leisure battery which is much taller.
Then he cut the battery strap and added some metal to ensure that the strap clamped down on the cover.
See my Peebles thread.
I do have an Autocraft strap in my stash I could measure but I would work the other way sort out battery size and if you will be using a cover...some do fit 12v batteries and then work out what you need to do the make it clamp.
For example the fixing at the rear of the battery is a threaded stud which you could extend to allow the post to be higher...
Then you would not need to cut n shut..
Have a look at Peebles..

That's great thanks

Great Thread, looks absolutely fantastic!
I have seen the part with width and length for the batteries, do you happen to know the height? That way I know if the strap will fit,. with or without adaption. cheers

http://www.autocrafteng.co.uk/shop/sear ... 5-67_1968/



There are three sizes..
I am after the smallest size at 6 7/8" x 7.5"



I was after the biggest ones and now have two of those..

Now I want the little size one...
I have two. ....looking for a third to cut n shut another cover for my Sherry leisure battery cover.
Have found a samba poster who has 22 for sale. ..LOL

From the picture of the Autocraft strap you can see that the end near the engine has an over centre clip which clips on a finger on thr bsttery tray next to the engine.
The end which goes at the back has a foot with a hole in it. This end is attached to the threaded weld stud on the battery tray.
To extend the length of the strap ...... you can cut the strap length and weld in a piece.....or make an extension piece to bolt to the floor and attach to the strap with a nut and bolt.
The weld stud could have a piece of threaded rod added to it with an internally threaded piece of tube or a long tube nut to take a bolt...
At worst a piece of Heath Robinson heavy duty wire to a right angle bracket on the weld stud and the foot on the battery strap. ..
This end sits behind the battery and once the battery is in situ and and under tension will be unseen.
The MOT recent changes require that the battery is securely strapped down.
If you do not want a battery cover...you can get red plastic cover for the live terminal. ...
I have these fitted anyway with the metal battery cover.
With a life time of being a petrol head the memory of a neighbour dropping a spanner on a Sierra battery and the amazing consequences of having to help wash him his friend and his engine bay down quickly with a hose pipe after the spanner melted and the battery exploded covering him and everyone and everything in battery acid led me to understand the risks involved..
Any help?

Yes absolutely! A great help i will now get the red caps and explore getting covers. Who would of thought that batteries could be such fun. I have seen a 24v battery explode when jump leads were put on the wrong way. Frightening! The batteries were in series so I can see how it happened, but a massive bang

autocraft quote the shorter strap number...

http://www.autocrafteng.co.uk/shop/sear ... 5-67_1968/

How did you attach the fuse holders for your propex and 12v sockets? They look really neat and tidy

We have a mounting bracket screwed to the underside of the engine panel on which Is mounted the split charge unit which just slips into a pocket on the bracket and the fuse box for the split charge and a simple two fuse box for the heater and the rear engine bay lights and the rear 12v socket...
As I have said many times..

Matt install are meticulous and his cable runs and fabrication skills are amazing.
Dave made the copy of the Devon step which is fantastic. ..

It is excellent work. The whole van looks absolutely fantastic. Do you have any more photos of that area around the LB as I need to put some fuses there for my EBER and amp.

Cheers

What do folks use, if they're not using the metal strap? I'm concerned about the battery slipping and contacting the strap?

My battery tray needs repair (I'm hoping I can patch it, rather than replace), but that's a jot that'll have to wait until next winter. I'm planning to pop rivet a metal plate over the remains as a fix for this summer.

The post and clip for the strap are still there, but the strap is long gone. It would make sense to use the post and clip as anchors though.

Are there any non-metallic straps? Can't think of anywhere that sells bungie straps that short?

I used one of these, drill 2 holes.

https://www.duriteparts.com/durite_0-08 ... tAodul8A_A

As a temporary fix you could always "stick" a new battery tray section on top of what you have using the same type of panel bond adhesive that some guys are using on their long panels?

The vw battery tray had a footprint with a rimmed lip...sunken area the battery sat in. Trouble is battery sizes n shapes have changed.
The Autocraft tray has two indents one a 6v and other a 12v. The panel has the threaded post fir the foot against the side and the clip against the engine. I have seen others who have painted the panel and ski flexed it in place on top of their crusty area. They knocked out the loose rust....Kurusted the rest..and plan is he'd it flat and stuck the painted trimmed panel on top..
Nervous about welding with engine and tank in place.

Looked and worked fine. With some rivets as well..
Unless you go over speed bid at 60...and possible stable solution. MOT man approved...

Thanks both.

As a short term measure I've a piece of steel from a filing cabinet that I'll use to reinforce the old tray. Longer term I'll use a replacement tray with the indent (hadn't realised the Autocraft panel will take a 12V battery too). I'm hoping there's enough solid metal around the perimeter of the existing tray that I can cut out the centre and let in a patch from the new panel, to avoid having to plug weld to the corner panel. Not sure if it's too badly distorted though.

The durite clamp looks good enough for the short term fix.