have encountered a problem with my empi 5s not fitting my new CSP front discs. i think the wheels are made by rocket industries.
the wheels are on as far as they can go and theres nowhere near enough of the studs from the discs sticking out, as can be seen in the pics below.

anything i can do aside from changing my wheels? i did ask creative engineering if the discs would fit empi 5s before i ordered them and they asured me they would.

Dude have you got the right nuts for the wheels i had some [rockets]and i needed these nuts it think i had about that much thread showing as these nuts go into the wheels stud holes hope this helps.just had a good look dont think they are rockets as the stud area is flat i think you need the longer stud that you can get i think machine7 do them.


http://www.machine7.com/product.php?xPr ... 3&xSec=596

Looks like you're going to need longer studs putting in the rotors, as even though the wheel nuts you'll use for that style of rim mounting go 'inside' the rim a far way, I don't think you've enough thread on the outside.

will take the wheel into machine7 and see if they can help.

if i do need new studs in the rotors is this a DIY job or do they need to be returned to CSP to do this?

What Jim said - I wouldn't want to ride in a bus with it's wheels hanging on such a short thread - get some longer studs dude - you have to remember that the wheels you are fitting were never designed for a bus, they have the wrong offset etc so you wanna make sure they're bolted up right and then check them every 500 miles or so to begin with until you're happy they're not going to fall off (I'm not trying to be dramatic, there are a lot of threads on here where they have fallen off!)

Orb

those wheels use a
m12 by 1.5 lug nut
-they have to run with washers with a 45 degree taper

-if you have m14 studs, then it cant be done
-if you need to run m12 studs in an m14 hole in the hub, you need studs from a volvo - m12 but the head is fatter -15.01mm

You certainly know your studs

Those seem to me as the 'American Racing' version of EMPI 5s as my EMPI 5s look different when it comes to the stud holes

Take a look....



Don't fret though. You don't need longer studs, as they make wheel nuts that are tapered (so they 'submerge' below the wheelnut opening so more thread is used). Just get a set of tapered wheel nuts as others have suggested.

cheers, i dropped into machine7 today and they sorted me out with some longer studs (m12 to m14, 40mm) and some mag nuts. will give them a try tonight but hopefully they should be OK.

i been informed that my wheels are american eagles rather than rocket industries as i first though. cheers.

i dont think tapered nuts will be good enough as i believe the stud needs to go into the head of the nut. if you just use the tapered thread then that part of ther nut is really thin so it could snap during transit. hence, the stud needs to go as much into the head of the nut as possible.
i almost sound as though i know what im talking about now

ferkh10 wrote:cheers, i dropped into machine7 today and they sorted me out with some longer studs (m12 to m14, 40mm) and some mag nuts. will give them a try tonight but hopefully they should be OK.

i been informed that my wheels are american eagles rather than rocket industries as i first though. cheers.

i dont think tapered nuts will be good enough as i believe the stud needs to go into the head of the nut. if you just use the tapered thread then that part of ther nut is really thin so it could snap during transit. hence, the stud needs to go as much into the head of the nut as possible.
i almost sound as though i know what im talking about now

I'd be inclined to say that the tapered nuts will do the trick and many people with alloys use them so they are reliatively safe, but longer studs are always a good idea and, like you said, much safer.

the lug nuts or mag nuts you bought, when fitted with the washers however, need to be just shy of sticky out the other side
from mammory the bore on them are all .690 inch, if the bore in the wheel is .750 - 3/4 deep, you need a lug nut that is 20mm - minus 3 for the washer, giveth 18mm of length
-for arguments sake
if they are too short, then they are not permitted.

dem mag nuts do waggle in the wheels - the centreing occurs at the tapered washer.


this is why people opt for an oem wheel from say a porsche, as its firstly struck, or forged instead of being cast, so they are lighter
then annodised instead of being painted, has a ball or round taper - being even better than a 60 degree taper, which the wheels then tolerance fit onto the oem hubs spigot, all you then need to do is get the wheels et/offset correct = job done

-anyways - the wheels you have were made for a beeyle, the offset is wrong for a type 2.
just coz they fit isn't good enough.

oh plus have you made sure they sit flush on the rear, as they are prone to not liking the spiral casting flash on rear drums

vanagonman wrote:

ferkh10 wrote:cheers, i dropped into machine7 today and they sorted me out with some longer studs (m12 to m14, 40mm) and some mag nuts. will give them a try tonight but hopefully they should be OK.

i been informed that my wheels are american eagles rather than rocket industries as i first though. cheers.

i dont think tapered nuts will be good enough as i believe the stud needs to go into the head of the nut. if you just use the tapered thread then that part of ther nut is really thin so it could snap during transit. hence, the stud needs to go as much into the head of the nut as possible.
i almost sound as though i know what im talking about now

I'd be inclined to say that the tapered nuts will do the trick and many people with alloys use them so they are reliatively safe, but longer studs are always a good idea and, like you said, much safer.

You can only use taper wheel bolts / nuts with rims designed for their use. Trying to use them on that type of wheel would be seriously dangerous, as the contact area that the nut would sit against would be really minimal.

ferkh10, you're definately doing the right thing there.

cheers all. some good advice and info.

ive just tried one of the new 40mm studs, mag nuts and washers that i got from machine7 today. the new studs are slightly too long now, the mag nut is going to run out of thread to fully screw the wheel on - so, ive gone from studs too short (30mm) to studs too long (40mm) , but the guy at machine7 said this may be a possibility.

i dont think that an m12x1.5 to m14x1.5 35mm screw in stud exists (or does it?), would any safety be compromised by using 2 washers with the 40mm stud, which would shorten the thread on the 40mm stud a little?

You're not having much luck are you...

Rather than use two washers, is there a local machinist that could neatly remove the 5mm? (or whatever is too required)

vwJim wrote:
You can only use taper wheel bolts / nuts with rims designed for their use. Trying to use them on that type of wheel would be seriously dangerous, as the contact area that the nut would sit against would be really minimal.

ferkh10, you're definately doing the right thing there.

I wasn't aware these wheels were not made to accept tapered nuts as standard. You're correct, in this case, they would be potentially dangerous.

Good to hear you went with the right approach and bought the longer lugs, ferkh10.