cyclosport wrote:I've done an IRS conversion using a 69 Bay rear end, A Arms, Hubs etc.

I'm using AH code beetle gearbox and CE chassis legs.

Everything has gone really well until I tried to bolt the engine back onto the different gearbox.

It was pretty tight getting it back on and after starting it up, the clutch won't engage and makes a light squealing noise after lifting my foot off the clutch pedal.

My question is, do I need to change my friction plate, pressure plate etc?

I'm going to replace the thrust bearing washer as a matter of course.

did you use the right clutch kit for your gearbox? There are 2 20mm kits the late and the early. If you re used the old one the your's is wrong.

Thanks for your reply Mike, your on the right track mate!

Massive thanks to VWJim who helped me track down the problem, the pressure plate needed to be changed. It had a collar in the middle of the fingers and was 10mm thicker than the correct pressure plate which had no collar, just fingers.

So thanks again my fellow SSVC friends.

Thats my 1966 bus lowered 3-4 inches with a gearbox with a synchro that works and IRS.

Thanks to fellow SSVC member Doctor Bus - http://www.doctorbusvw.co.uk who advised me through the whole IRS from the beginning.

The wife will be pleased, her pride and joy is back on the road!

Regards,

Mark (aka "Barn Boy")

i went to swap my hubs today and need new hub nuts and noticed they are the same size as a beetle,not a van,
is this ok?
i have a bus boys s/a kit. type 3 rear drums

Hi All,

I want to go IRS on my bus using an AH box, early bay A arms, breaks and spring plates. Can I run at full stock height with this set up or will I end up with negative camber and will the CV's cope with the angles of the drive shafts? Also I hear that the Creative cradle weld in parts are excellent but if I could help it I'd like to keep the bus as stock as possible so I'm trying to avoid too much cutting. Could I use the boxwagen bolt in kit ( with the early bay stuff) and keep the OG gearbox mounts? Also where to source the boxwagen kit.

Cheers John

I think Boxwagen is now VW Camper Expert. I'd be interested to know what the best bolt on solution for IRS would be for a stock height bus any ideas?



http://www.vwcamperexpert.co.uk/

I'm sure you've probably already found out but, if you want to retain stock height with IRS you need to use Type 4 CV joints, as they have a greater degree of travel.

hey all,

i'm heading back to the uk in a few weeks to grab some toys for the split and wanted your advice on which SA kit to get.

I'm torn between the T2D one and the Bus Station one. Obviously there is a price difference, i'll be carrying both back on the plane, so any advice would be greatly appreciated.

ta

Hi all, i am runnig creative irs set up and have excessive camber on the back wheels!!, does anyone have a clue as to how to cure this ?????
Thanks Sean

danielc wrote:hey all,

i'm heading back to the uk in a few weeks to grab some toys for the split and wanted your advice on which SA kit to get.

I'm torn between the T2D one and the Bus Station one. Obviously there is a price difference, i'll be carrying both back on the plane, so any advice would be greatly appreciated.

ta

IMHO, don't go for ones that use adapter plates that allow you to use late end castings.

seanju wrote:Hi all, i am runnig creative irs set up and have excessive camber on the back wheels!!, does anyone have a clue as to how to cure this ?????
Thanks Sean

Machining to the A-arms &/or hub carriers to compensate for what's wrong with the current geometry, so the wheels end up being correct.

seanju wrote:Hi all, i am runnig creative irs set up and have excessive camber on the back wheels!!, does anyone have a clue as to how to cure this ?????
Thanks Sean

Swapping A arms side to side helps eleviate excessive camber too, how low are you?

moler wrote:

seanju wrote:Hi all, i am runnig creative irs set up and have excessive camber on the back wheels!!, does anyone have a clue as to how to cure this ?????
Thanks Sean

Swapping A arms side to side helps eleviate excessive camber too, how low are you?

You sure? Thought at was T1 based IRS arms only.

Here are a few pictures showing how much camber is on the wheels, i know its not the most accurate, but using a level set plumb
from the wheel arch and taking a measure from the top and bottom of the wheel rim , 71mm at the top, 44mm at the bottom =27mm difference.
As for the ride hight, the distance from the rear arch to the garage floor is 470mm, i cant lift the bus any more because i am running drop spindles
and a T2 detectives beam with adjusters that wont adjust anymore, so i am stuck with the hight!!
Thanks Sean

moler wrote:I'm sure you've probably already found out but, if you want to retain stock height with IRS you need to use Type 4 CV joints, as they have a greater degree of travel.

Hi,

What sort of output flanges do you use on the gearbox for type 4 CVs?
I currently have type 1 CVs on the inner end, van running at approx standard height and have done approx 2000miles this summer.

Roger

I have the same problem mate. If you find anywhere that can do the machining let me know! My bus currently looks like a squatting dog!

seanju wrote:





Here are a few pictures showing how much camber is on the wheels, i know its not the most accurate, but using a level set plumb
from the wheel arch and taking a measure from the top and bottom of the wheel rim , 71mm at the top, 44mm at the bottom =27mm difference.
As for the ride hight, the distance from the rear arch to the garage floor is 470mm, i cant lift the bus any more because i am running drop spindles
and a T2 detectives beam with adjusters that wont adjust anymore, so i am stuck with the hight!!
Thanks Sean