66 SO42 wrote:Hi All

I'm toying with the idea of getting some wedges made to solve the issue of camber on the back wheels. We've made a test set up that have been fitted to a bus (I'll try and get Sean to post some before and after pics shortly), but they will be laser cut to follow the profile ot the A arms, and fit between the spring plate and A arm, and are machined down to suit the bus/ride height.

Not got final costs yet, but would imagine they will be somewhere in the region of £50 per pair

Just wanting to judge if there is any interest?

Cheers

Neil

Be interested mate, just about to replace the rear tyres as worn too much on the inner edge due to camber.

A bit more info.

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=115827


Haven't got round to adjusting mine yet, but will post up results when done.

Is this just a problem with CE arms or any bay IRS that's been lowered?
Does anyone know if T1 IRS kits are any better for camber?

Its mainly CE IRS, purely down to their system having zero adjustability.

Boxwagen Bay IRS design has camber compensation built it.

Most T1 IRS is adjustable too.

Thanks.
Let's say you got it spot on for your drive height but had air suspension. Does any one know if T1 or T2 IRS is subject to less camber change through their travel?
Would really love to know as I have both bolt on options ready to go and don't know which to choose.

Barely any difference I'd expect as marginal differences in the pivot points.

Possibly T1 being better. T1 has more brake options, so I'd always go for that.

We have a similar problem with our splitty, as both rear wheels have camber in at the top, it has a Beetle irs fitted but not too low as its in regular use and still wanted some suspension that we could live with, both sides look different angles but only slightly out, we didnt fit any horseshoe plates or alter the rear before fitting it all up.
Still getting inner tire wear as expected but would like to correct the problem if possible.

This has been gone over so many times.....if the cambers to excessive with a CE IRS set up then it's not been fitted/welded in the correct position.
This is the best pic I have at the mo but it shows the small amount of neg camber on the 15w with a Creative Engineering IRS.
Any IRS is meant to have a small amount of neg camber as the camber is affected more by body roll than ride height change. As the body rolls during cornering it increases tyre contact with road surface. If you start with zero camber you will lose contact with body roll.
No IRS setup is meant to have zero camber. Even stock bays have a bit of neg camber unlike a stock split.

Remember they're SPRING plates....they're meant to twist and flex.

wizard 1066 wrote:We have a similar problem with our splitty, as both rear wheels have camber in at the top, it has a Beetle irs fitted but not too low as its in regular use and still wanted some suspension that we could live with, both sides look different angles but only slightly out, we didnt fit any horseshoe plates or alter the rear before fitting it all up.
Still getting inner tire wear as expected but would like to correct the problem if possible.

If you have the bolt on shackles for the Beetle A arms then you can affect the camber buy rotating the shackles on the torsion tube.

As Flatbeat said, its an installation cockup. But based on the ones I see, it's very common and often different per side.

I also have some bolt on clamps for my IRS set up.
And i have some negative camber as well.
Does sombody have picture of how high these clamps should be bolted on the housing?
I adjust them all ready but still have negative camber.

Henk!!!

Hi Henk.
You need to rotate the bolt on clamps upwards to dial out some camber .


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Henk,

Shame the heater tube has been hacked off, will be harder to install heating if ever needed.

I'd also move the brake hose fitting, as when you adjust the camber you'll be stressing the hard brake lines.

panel van lee wrote: ↑Thu Feb 01, 2018 8:52 pm Hi Henk.
You need to rotate the bolt on clamps upwards to dial out some camber .


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Ok thanks.
So still higher then they are now?

Henk!!!

vwJim wrote: ↑Thu Feb 01, 2018 9:42 pm Shame the heater tube has been hacked off, will be harder to install heating if ever needed.

I'd also move the brake hose fitting, as when you adjust the camber you'll be stressing the hard brake lines.

They where cut short all ready on one side.
Had to cut the other side as well or i could not turn the clamps up.gonna have to cut out some more now if i have to turn them even higher.
But not gonna use them has a webasto from a boat to place in my bus.
Where would you thinknis a beter place to place the fitting.whitout change the brakelines?

Henk!!!