One of the best tools you'll ever buy.

Groovy

http://www.centricparts.com/files/Centr ... _Guide.pdf

yes, i used my eezibleed just last night. absolute doddle to use, took me less than 10 mins to do all 4 wheels.
got mine from ebay for about £15 if i remember.

Got mine the other day and yes.... very easy to use!
Hardest part was squeezing under the van cos I couldn't be arsed to jack the thing up 4 times

ha, i did exactly the same thing last night too and battered my head off the rear wheel arch!!

Personally, I prefer this vacuum type.



You can empty the reservior too, before bleeding the system, so a complete fluid change becomes very simple. Plus, if the master cylinder is a little 'old', you're not making the master cylinder operate more than its used too. ie bleeding an empty system means the m/c goes through a full stroke, which it won't have done in normal use.

Iam after sorting my brakes on my 62 to dual circuit but I wont be fitting a servo at present, and sticking with drums all around.
which Bay master cylinder do i need (with or without servo or either) ?
what is the conversion kit from CE cant see it on their site

cheers

you'll want a master cylinder for a 71-79 bus with servo.
heres a link to the m/c adaptor kit on creatives web site

Thanks alot for that

Tom

MATE
WAS IT DIFFICULT TO FIT A SERVO ON YOUR SPLIT??
WHERE DID YOU GET THE SERVO KIT?/
IS THERE LOADS OF MODIFICATIONS ON IT?
I WOULD LOVE TO FIT IN MY SPLIT,,,,JUST NEEDS A BETTER PERFOMANCE BRAKES..
MANY THANKS FOR YOU REPLY
TAHNK YOU
KOMBILOVE LONDON TOWN

bobley wrote:Bolted the beam back in now and done most of the plumbing. I've strapped the vacuum line to the clutch and added a second brake switch and then moved all the old brake pipes (I put them on flexis last time because I knew I'd be fitting this servo at some point). The only serious problem was a misalignment of the pedal rod so I got my structural analysis colleagues to take a look at it and they say its okay to bend it. Dave P was a bit concerned because the last RHD he fitted it to didn't need this tweak so it may just be something to do with our bus???

Thats a creative engineering servo. It works great but it was a b!tch to fit to a RHD bus. On a LHD it would be quite simple and if you haven't done a dual circuit conversion either its even better becasue the servo kit includes the adapter plate to mount the bay master cylinder. The servo kit is £195 on its own or £240 with the master cylinder.

http://creative-engineering.com/index.p ... &Itemid=26

Looking for some advise on the dual circuit brake kit I received today. Are the holes in the area where the reservoir fits correct? just concerned that they may be blocked by the rubber bungs when reservoir is installed.





one just looks more off than the other

thanks

I too need some advice. We all like the challenge of fixing our busses, but my latest grip does not fit well with my curent, new baby, no job situation.

Read: total melt down.

My plan early this year was to fit my newly restored 944 disks upfront with a dual circuit system. I brought the CSP Dual C kit from one of my fav traders to ease the parts search at this time. I'm down where I keep my Bus (200miles away from home) trying to prepare it for an MOT. I decided after a remote fit of the disks that I would like a narrow beam to do the disks justice and keep the track narrow.

So for now I've gone back to drums all round. Just for the summer.

My question: I have fitted the Dual C just as described in the instructions (front holes feed back brakes and switch, back holes feed front).

It all seemed to fit up nicely and unlike this artical http://topsoilproject.com/How%20To%20CS ... linder.pdf I did not need to adjust the rod I had to make it 1mm off touching the cylinder. I just nipped it up with a spanner.

As I had new slaves in store I fitted them up front too. All the work so far was as I have done many times before (had the bus 16 years) and it was all straight forward. I gave the bus a full bleed and saw air out of the nipples as would be expected after changing the Master C. But on the final depression of the pedal, when I would normally lock out the bleed nipple and the pedal would go firm. No firmness?

In fact after two full bleeding sessions now, the pedal still has no biting point. It's on the drive and the pedals will go to carpet with a funny spongey soft 'no fight' feeling. So I now have all four wheel off the ground. The drums are all adjusted up and when the pedal is depress they all lock up? This tends to happen at 80% of the full pedal travel (close to the carpet). Before on a single C my bit point was at about 20% in to depression (depression you say... tell me about it?????).

So yes I have no idea. Faulty master cylinder. Here are the numbers on the side? 334/07 CR2 or VFCC 0007-8

It's Sat afternoon, MOT is Monday at 3, then its 200 miles home and more nappies and job hunting. It wold be great to have the bus back on the road and out of my mind.

Any help please?

feel for you! hats off to your commitment

anyhow, try the simple things first. im assuming that you dont have a leak in the pipes anywhere or you'd see the brake fluid coming out and your brakes wouldnt lock up at all. its worth tightening everything up at the drums and at the tee's and unions, though.

also, assuming you still have your old single circuit master cylinder, refit that and bleed your brakes. if alls OK you know its not the pipes and most likely your m/c. i've read theres a way to bleed the master cylinder but i dont know about that. im sure someone on here will though.

i always bleed the brakes on a hill whenever i can (rear end higher), it helps any air rise and you'll lose it when you bleed your rear brakes first. an air lock in the system sounds a likely culprit also. i use a gunson easybleed and they're perfect for bleeding brakes. think theyre available from halfords or any other high street motor retailer

as a last resort, buy another dual circuit m/c and try that. if you still get the same results you know it isnt the m/c.

hope this helps?