I have a Schofields DC Kit to fit that I bought recently. Does anyone have a set of instructions for the procedure they could email to me please? If so please pm me for email address. Thanks.

Crooky wrote:I have a Schofields DC Kit to fit that I bought recently. Does anyone have a set of instructions for the procedure they could email to me please? If so please pm me for email address. Thanks.

I started fitting the Schofields kit this afternoon. Same procedure as on CSP's website...

http://www.csp-shop.com/cgi-bin/cshop2/front/shop_main.cgi?func=htmlserv&tmpl=shop_text_csp.html&content=std_technik_montageanleitungen&wkid=649413210314#montage_adapter_1

It doesn't say in the instructions, but the reservoir needs to go with the filler at the front of the cylinder to line up with the hole in the cab floor.

I'm only part way through because I'm replacing all the hard lines at the same time and adding a t-piece to the front circuit so I can have brake light switches on both circuits.

Mate you're exactly where I'm at. Gotta fit pipes too as PO did a strange bodge job and I want to do the same with brake light switches too. I'll check it out. Thank you.

Couple of useful pictures on this page that might help you visualise the connections...

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=242594&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=20

The picture posted by iveedubbin near the bottom of the page that shows a rusty old master cylinder with brake light switches on both circuits was helpful to me (although I think that's the original '67 dual circuit master cylinder type).

The Varga unit is longer, so it reaches all the way back to the transverse panel, like in the picture posted by Robzkombi so I routed the short line to the t-piece under the transverse panel and up, rather than through the hole that is already there. The bend would be too tight otherwise.

FYI, the rear t-piece is a ***** to get at with the rear on its wheels - it sits on top of the upper engine mounting frame horns, so you can't see the bolt or pipe connections, and mine was buried in crud. There is also a pipe clamp for a brake line in the same position on the opposite engine mounting frame horn and was also buried in crud on mine.

There are lots of references to adjusting the pushrod when fitting the DCMC but has anyone had an issue with the pushrod being too long to allow the required freeplay?

My '61 project had no MC or brake pedal pushrod so I'm fitting a new dual circuit MC (from VWH) and new pushrod (from C&C). They are both definitely correct for the year etc. and the MC is fitted correctly with spacer etc.

But the pushrod seems too long? Even adjusted to make it as short as possible, its a tight fit with no room for any free play and is pushing on the MC piston.

The brake pedal seems to be in the correct place (nicely aligned with clutch pedal and not stuck part way down) so that doesn't seem to be the issue.

Shortening the pushrod by about 10mm looks like it would work but that feels a bit drastic for something that should have just gone in without a fuss.

Anyone else had this issue and/or got any other suggestions? Can the brake pedal be adjusted somehow to give a bigger gap and if so how?

Thanks

Probably just the replacement parts are the wrong length.

Thanks Jim, Pushrod shortened and all good now.

Just wondering whether anyone swapping to front discs and doing the dual-circuit conversion is also fitting a brake pressure regulator? I've seen a few threads where people say they aren't readily available and not experiencing any issues without.

I have just fitted a dual circuit M/C and adapter on my 67 RHD, it all went ok until i went to fit the under tray i thought it was going to be a straight swap but as you can see it isn't.

I had a bump grafted onto that area to accommodate the end of the dual m/c.

OG 67 buses that were dual circuit had a VW special m/c.

Aftermarket ones with a spacer are longee which pushes the m/c out more..

Pictures of my instal in Peeble thread. I
fitted a T in line to move the brake switch from sticking out the side and avoid a clash but I still had to have bump installed..
Will find a picture..
G

Just doing the same but i have made a bit up for the brake switch sticking out the side. Its taken a lot longer to do that then to fit the M/C

Thank you for sharing so I found a solution convenient, thank you very much.