Thanks Richard,

I'll give it a go tonght. Must be something simple.

Thanks again

Jim

Hi all, checked everything again, plug gaps, points, etc. I have also checked the timing. 5 degrees ATDC with the rotor at No. .

Is it still possible that I could be 180 degrees out.? Still getting a massive backfire after turning it over a few times. I take it wouldn't do this if fuel wasn't getting through?

Thanks

Jim

Hei fueling issues can be odd, if you can connect an external feed you might rule it out.

One thing that I had a problem with on my van was on one side the rocker shaft clamp nuts were loose! This was not very obvious, but I seem to remember mini backfires, of course it through the tappets way out....

I and many others on here have had 2 faults at the same time. Do you carry a spare dizzy? If so try it

Good luck

Sent from my D5503 using Tapatalk

Thanks, I've just swapped the coil, points, dizzy, rotor arm, leads, Checked the timing...........AGAIN

Not even trying to fire now............ I'm starting to think it is the fuel. Will the plugs be wet if it's getting through?

The engine has been sat for 18 months, but I've put it back in as it was. Ran fine before?

Jim

Jim

Not sure you have the timing right, mine at static is 7ish BTDC, but I always time it at 3,500rpm to 28-30 BTDC, mine is a 1600TP with twin ICTs and a vac advance dizzy, but the timing was the same with the single PICT 34 when that was fitted.

Richard

Well you can check the fuel pump by just running the outlet pipe into a bucket/jar.

I would also try fresh fuel, crap can get anywhere, and even a float can just decide to give up.

If you do drain some fuel out this way you'll see what's going through the system as well. You will get there

Sent from my D5503 using Tapatalk

vwdave wrote:Thanks, I've just swapped the coil, points, dizzy, rotor arm, leads, Checked the timing...........AGAIN

Not even trying to fire now............ I'm starting to think it is the fuel. Will the plugs be wet if it's getting through?

The engine has been sat for 18 months, but I've put it back in as it was. Ran fine before?

Jim

My single cab was running like a dog with the old carb and was backfiring and spluttering. Haven't been through your whole thread, but what engine and carb do you have?

Thanks, all, I try this tomorrow. There is fuel in the float chamber? Tank has been drained, new filter and fresh petrol.

I've timed it at 5ish. Not sure if I'm doing it correctly? Setting wheel to 5 degrees past TDC, Rotor arm to position 1 on the dizzy, set the points, then testing with a light attached to the negative on the coil and an earth by rotating cap till it lights up?

It's a TP1600 Single 34 PICT. Will post some pics tomorrow.

Really appreciate all your help. I'm sure I'll get there. All still a steep learning curve.

Jim

vwdave wrote:Thanks, all, I try this tomorrow. There is fuel in the float chamber? Tank has been drained, new filter and fresh petrol.

I've timed it at 5ish. Not sure if I'm doing it correctly? Setting wheel to 5 degrees past TDC, Rotor arm to position 1 on the dizzy, set the points, then testing with a light attached to the negative on the coil and an earth by rotating cap till it lights up?

It's a TP1600 Single 34 PICT. Will post some pics tomorrow.

Really appreciate all your help. I'm sure I'll get there. All still a steep learning curve.

Jim

Jim

If you have a distributor like this:-



Then static should be roughly 7.5 BTDC:-



BUT you must, once running and warm set it 28-30 at 3,500rpm because you don't want max advance being any more than that.

Think you may be 12deg out in your setup?

As I said before, go back to the basics, set the engine with No1 at TDC, don't forget it gets to TDC twice so make sure the valves are fully closed (check your valve clearances at the same time).

Check which way the rotor in the dizzy is pointing, my engine is 180deg out to the diagram above because my distributor drive moved and I have never corrected it.

Then check the plug leads follow the firing sequence, so wherever you start from it goes clockwise 1-4-3-2.

If you want to check your fuel pump is working, disconnect the coil, take the fuel pipe off the carb and put it into a bottle and turn the engine over.

Then check the static timing and fire him up.

Hope this helps.

Richard

Normally the 5 ATDC is for USA spec dizzys with dual vac cans - I'd deffo set it to 7.5btdc and I'm betting it will run sweet as a nut....

Thanks again for the posts,

I've checked that no.1 piston is at no.1 lead on the dizzy (checked with a pencil in no.1 cylinder)

Checked and double checked plugs and point gaps with rotor arm pointing at no.1 (At 7.5 to 10 ATDC)

Tried new dizzy and rotor arm, change point and condenser

Plugs are all wet, so fuel getting through

Engine is now coughing and spluttering but still wont fire?

How do I check the choke I not sticking, could it be this?

Thanks again. Jim

Jim

I would take a look here:-

http://www.vw-resource.com/34pict3.html

The butterfly should be across the throat when cold and vertical when warm.

Is the wire connected to the choke and the fuel cut off solenoid? Can you here the solenoid click when the ignition is on (engine not running) and you connect/disconnect the wire?

Wish you were closer I'd be over to try a few things.

Richard

The timing figure of 7.5 to 10 ATDC you quote ? static timing figure is always BTDC

Put a test light on the points to confirm you are setting static timing before TDC and not after TDC Check direction of PULLEY Rotation

get some one to crank engine and mark pulley (then check points are breaking BTDC with a test light )

if you are setting timing ATDC it will pop and f*rt (parp) like a pig

You keep mentioning that the plugs are wet. Do you just have a flooding issue?

My 1600TP with a Solex 34 Pict 3 (bought as a rebuilt unit from Kevin at Riverhaus) runs best when it's set leaner than I'd expected.

The textbook description for tuning that carb is to start by setting the idle mixture screw (the smaller one) 2.5 turns out from fully in. Mine won't even begin to start if its that rich - it just won't catch. I have to lean it out by 1/2 to 1 further turns out (more air) and from there itll fire up and I can tune it. it likes to be leaner still when it's tuned.

That may just be my carb, but how did you set yours up?

If your plugs are really wet with fuel you might need to pull them and dry them.

Hi, when I say wet, I just mean a small amount of black fuel?

Just checked the carb, screw was almost fully in? Have screwed it out by 2.5x

Thanks, will try again later, I'm probably giving it to much juice when trying to fore it up.

Thanks again.

Jim